Historical Fancy Dress

Author: Susan de Guardiola

  • A Ball Poudré (Powdered Ball)

    (Here are a quartet of descriptions of an odd but apparently popular ball theme in which the only costuming done is that the ladies powder the hair.)

    Occasionally the hostess elects that her guests shall apear in costumes of a particular period, and Poudré Balls find many patrons.  Under these circumstances the lady guests only wear powder with ordinary evening dress, the gentlemen making no change from their usual attire, save perhaps that white waistcoats and button-holes are enjoined.

            Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

    ———————————

    Yet another kind of fancy ball is a bal poudré.  Here the guests are free to appear in ordinary evening dress but with powdered hair.  The ladies arrange their hair in imitation of some old picture, and there is plenty of variety to be obtained in this way.  One wears the long locks pertaining to one of Reynolds' beauties, another wears the piled up coiffure indulged in by the Court ladies in the reign of Louis XVI.  A piquante beauty does her hair à la Watteau, and a more serious one adopts the style of Marie Antoinette.  Powder and patches are allowable with this style of coiffure, and the powdered hair is so universally becoming that all the ladies look their best.

            Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

    ———————————

    A Ball Poudré

    A ball of this description is conducted upon the same basis as an ordinary ball, so far as the programme and general details are concerned.  The guests attire themselves as for a full-dress ball, except that th ladies are required to powder their hair white and wear fancy black patches upon their face; and the gentlemen to wear white vests and small button-hole bouquets.  The effect is very pretty, especially with the present artistic style of dressing which closely copies antique fashions.

            Masquerade and Carnival: Their Customs and Costumes.  London and New York: The Butterick Publishing Co., 1892.

    ———————————

    A Bal Poudré

    A ball of this description is conducted upon the same basis as an
    ordinary ball, so far as the program and the general details are
    concerned.  The guests attire themselves in evening dress as is the
    custom for a ball, the only difference being that the ladies are
    required to powder their hair white and wear fancy black patches upon
    their faces; and the gentlemen to wear white vests and small buttonhole
    bouquets.  The effect is very pretty, especially with the present
    artistic style of dressing.  The minuet should be danced, also those
    dances which have a slow, graceful movement.

            Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • Song

    FD-Butterick-Song

    (This is a great costume typical of many of the more abstract fancy dress themes.  It's taken from an Edwardian era manual but has draping at the hips much like that of the bustle era, though with hints of the Edwardian silhouette in the corsetry.  Click the illustration to enlarge for the details.)

    Skirt and bodice of cerise satin.  Draperies of pale-gray gauze, with laurel leaves, etc. for ornamentation.  Staff and notes painted on the skirt.

    Source: Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • Water Spirit

    (Unfortunately, a couple of my books contain hundreds of descriptions that have no accompanying illustrations.  Lots of room for imagination thinking about this description combined with the bustle silhouette!)

    Dress of sea-green tulle, trimmed with seaweeds, pearl shells, and coral.  Hair loose and flowing, crowned with a wreath of sea-weed and coral.  Ornaments of pearl shells.

    Source: Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

  • Magpie

    FD-Holt-1887-Magpie
    (Here's a dramatic woman's bird costume with two separate descriptions of different approaches to take to the theme, the second of which is illustrated at left.  Note that it's built over a small bustle!  Click the illustration to enlarge.)

    Half black, half white dress; hair powdered on one side and not on the other; one glove and one shoe black, one white; short satin skirt, with gauze tunic bordered with fringe; basque bodice; gauze fichu; satin ribbon tied in a bow at the throat; gauze cap.  All half black and half white, so that the wearer seems on one side all black, on the other all white.  A magpie on the right shoulder.

    [second version]  The front of the skirt is striped black and white satin plaited; the bodice cut in one with long side revers of black, lined and turned back with white ruching to the hem of the skirt, opening down back to show full plaited skirt.  The black bodice bordered with white; low striped vest; magpie on the shoulder and in hair, which may be powdered or not, or half-powdered.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Welcome to Historical Fancy Dress!

    Welcome, welcome!  There is actually no content here for you yet, but thank you for coming by to take a look.  Short posts describing fancy dress or masquerade costumes from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as well as information regarding fancy dress balls will begin appearing on a regular schedule starting in a few days.  Content will generally be taken directly from period sources.  If you have an interest in historical fancy dress, historical costuming in general, fancy dress balls, or historical dance, please bookmark this blog or subscribe to its feed above to receive regular updates.

    Those with an interest in historical dance in general may also enjoy my social dance history blog, Capering and Kickery, which has been up and running for a couple of years and has ample content available for your reading and research pleasure.

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    Historical Fancy Dress is professionally hosted — that means it costs money — and as I am a freelance researcher and teacher, the time it takes me to research and write posts is time away from my paying work.  I enjoy HFD and intend to keep it going, but any support you are able to give is appreciated!

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  • About the Historical Fancy Dress Blog

    The goal of the Historical Fancy Dress Blog is to provide specific information regarding the costumes and organization of various sorts of fancy dress balls in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries in order to support people who may wish to construct such costumes or run such events.

    The primary post content is simply descriptions and, when available, images of fancy dress costume ideas taken directly from various period sources.  Other posts may include descriptions of different kinds of balls, hair and makeup information, general information regarding historical fancy dress, and whatever other related content strikes the author’s fancy.  If you would like information on a particular costume, please see the requests page for information on submitting your request.

    Costume posts will be sorted in various ways to making finding a suitable costume easier: by wearer (men, women, boys, girls); by era (Victorian, Edwardian, Regency, and sometimes specific decade); and by theme (birds, flowers, seasons, abstract, etc.)

    For infomation regarding the specific dances done at these balls, please see the sister blog on social dance history, Capering and Kickery.

    If you would like to make a donation in support of Historical Fancy Dress and my research, please see the support page for a Paypal link.

  • Overview of Historical Fancy Dress

    Coming soon!