Historical Fancy Dress

Category: 1880s

  • The Seasons Quadrille

    (Here are descriptions of costumes for a Fancy Quadrille carried out by a matched set of eight ladies and gentlemen.  A subset of the costume descriptions could also be used for a group of men or women or for a couple.)

    THE SEASONS QUADRILLE

    SPRING. — A very Young Lady. — Short dress of primrose tulle, with satin bodice of the same colour.  Skirt, trimmed with bunches of primroses, and bouquets of same on shoulders; primrose wreath on the head; shoes and stockings and gloves all of the same colour.

    Attendant Gentleman — Angler — Izaak Walton. — A brown, velvet doublet, with brass buttons up the front and along the square side-pockets.  Full knee-breeches of brown velvet, with brown or yellow silk stockings.  A high pointed beaver hat, with yellow feather.; fishing-rod in hand.  Hair tied in a bag-wig with brown or yellow bow.

    SUMMER. — Pale pink tulle, over satin of the same shade.  Low bodice, edged with garland of roses.  Wreath of ross on head, and a long garland of the same flowers on the skirt.

    Attendant Gentleman — Haymaker. — Smock frock of cream-coloured soft silk, brown corduroy knee-breeches, and pale blue stockings, with Oxford shoes.  Rustic hat, and square-cut hair.  Sleeves tied in three places with pale blue ribbon.

    AUTUMN. — Amber tulle dress, trimmed with long garlands of poppies and corn.  Bunches of same on shoulders  Wreath of poppies and corn.  This is a most becoming dess for a brunette.

    Attendant Gentleman — Reaper. — Same as haymaker, but with green corduroy breeches, instead of brown.  Brown stockings and Oxford shoes.  Belt and sickle.

    WINTER. — White satin short dress, edged with swan's-down.  A robin perched on left shoulder.  Leonardo da Vinci cap of white plush, trimmed with swan's-down, and a robin stuck at one side.  High white satin boots edged with swan's down at the top.

    Attendant Gentleman — Polish Skater. — Dress of purple velvet, edged with fur.  Small skates slung to his belt.

    Source:
    Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

  • For Fair-Haired Women

    (Paralleling the list of costumes for brunettes, here are some fancy dress suggestions for fair-haired women from various editions of Ardern Holt's manual.)

    From the second edition in 1880:

    For FAIR WOMEN, among others, the following are suitable: — Arctic Maiden, Air, Bride of Lammermoor, Aurora, White Lady of Avenel, Canada, Canadian Snow Wreath, Danish, Day, Dew, Elaine, Fair Maid of Perth, Fairy, Flora, Marguerite in Faust, Moonlight, Norwegian, Ophelia, Peace, Polish, Rainbow, Rowena, Sabrina, Swiss, Schneewitchen, Titania, Twilight, and Water-Nymphs.

    The list expanded slightly in the 1887 & 1896 editions:

    For FAIR WOMEN, among others, the following are suitable: — Arctic Maide, Air, Bride of Lammermoor, Aurora, White Lady of Avenel, Canada, Canadian Snow Wreath, Danish Peasant, Day, Dew, Edith Bellender, Elaine, Fair Maid of Perth, Fairy, Flora, Gabrielle d'Estrées, La Belle Dame sans Merci, Margeurite in Faust, Moonlight, Norwegian costumes, Ophelia, Peace, Polish Peasant, Rainbow, Rowena, Sabrina, Swiss, Schneewittchen, Titania, Twilight, and Water-Nymphs.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Falconer & Falconry

    (Falconer and Falcon(e)ry are actually individual costumes from completely different sources, though close together in time, but they'd also make a workable pair of themed costumes for a couple, despite their disparate historical styles.  It seems a bit unfair that the lady gets a hawk, presumably stuffed, and the gentleman does not!)

    For the gentlemen, a Falconer:

    FALCONER
    Short tunic of brown velvet trimmed with a plastron of gold cloth and bound with gold braid, fastened round the waist with a leather belt.  Loose knickerbockers, gartered at the knee, and tied with a ribbon bow.  White stockings with calf-pieces of velvet trimmed with gold braid.  Leather shoes.  Lace neck-frill.  Soft, round hat of velvet, trimmed with eagle feathers.

    Source:
    Masquerade and Carnival.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1892.

     

    For the ladies, Falconery:

    FALCONERY
    Short skirt of dark cloth, red, blue, or brown; green velvet skirt caught up on one side; long basqued jacket of the same; gauntlet gloves with hawk on the hand.  Cavalier hat with dropping feathers; high boots.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

     

    Nine years later the description is virtually the same, though the velvet overskirt is lost and the spelling is more conventional:

    FALCONRY
    Short skirt of dark cloth, red or brown; long basqued jacket of green velvet; gauntlet gloves; a hawk on the hand.  Cavalier hat with dropping feathers; high boots.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Academical Dress/Girl Graduate

    (The evolution of these descriptions across sixteen years and three editions of this fancy dress manual offers an interesting look at women's slow entry into academia.)

    In 1880, the entire idea is considered futuristic:

    GRADUATE, LADY, OF THE FUTURE.  Dark blue velvet dress, undergraduate's black gown and cap, lace cravat; hair tied with pale blue ribbons. (No illustration.)

    By 1887, it appears to be routine, and there are two entries, one of which implies a doctorate.

    ACADEMICAL DRESS.  Long silk academical robe; white, lack, red or other colour, plain or brocaded, worn over a plain skirt and bodice.  Academical cap.  (No illustration.)

    FD-Holt-1887-GirlGraduate GIRL GRADUATE.  In academical robe and cap, which may be of plain or brocaded silk in black or colours.  Or, dark blue velvet dress with black University gown, faced with blue; doctor's hat; scarlet stockings; black shoes; lace cravat; hair tied in a cue with ribbon.  (Illustrated at left.)

    And in 1896, the descriptions, combined, include a reference to the academical robes of the Princess of Wales when she was awarded a Doctorate in Music by Trinity College, Dublin, during a state visit in 1885.

    FD-Holt-1896-Academical ACADEMICAL DRESS.  Girl Graduate.  Long silk academical robe; white, black, red, or any other color, plain or brocaded, worn over a silk or satin skirt and bodice, which may be accordion pleated, academical cap.  The robe is sometimes faced with color.  Muslin bands are worn on a lace cravat.  The hair occasionally tied in a cue with a ribbon. (Illustrated at right.)  The Princess of Wales's robes as Doctress of Music were white silk bordered in front with red as were the pendant sleeves.  The hood red; the college cap edged with gold having a gold tassel.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Fancy Quadrilles

    (Often a fancy dress ball will include a prearranged quadrille featuring a set of themed costumes — matching or “naturally associated” with each other.  This might be the opening dance of the ball following the grand march or might be later, or there might be several during the evening.  Here are some ideas from the 1880s and 1890s for such quadrilles.  I particularly like the “naturally associated” pairing of Politicians and Nuns in the 1892 source!)

    A full list of the sources from which these descriptions are taken is at the bottom of this post.

        A marked feature at most Fancy Balls is a specially-arranged Quadrille.  The choice is a large one.  The following have from time to time been given: –Watteau, Poudré, Louis Quinze, Shepherds and Shepherdesses, when both ladies and gentlemen wear the hair powdered and the costumes which everybody associates with these characters.  A Louis Quinze Hunting Quadille in the hunting dress of that period.  A Quadrille of All Nations, embracing all nationalities, the ladies and gentlemen of the same countries dancing together, the gentlemen occasionally carryng the national flag; Scotch, Irish, King and Queen, Army and Navy, Flowers of the Year, Venetian Vandyke, Pack of Cards, Fairy Tale, Joe Willett and Dolly Varden, Puritan and Cavalier.  The time when such Quadrilles are danced, and the partners are all pre-arranged.   (Holt, 1880)

        At some fancy balls quadrilles are arranged beforehand, in which all the dancers are to be dressed after the fashion of some particular period.  One of these quadrilles should open the ball, and others may be interspersed in the programme at irregular intervals.  (Armstrong, c1880s)

        A marked feature at most Fancy Balls is a specially-arranged Quadrille.  The choice is a large one.  The following have from time to time been given: –Watteau, Poudré, Noah’s Ark, Cracker, Constellation, Domino, Hobby-Horse, Seasons, Bouquet, Bird, Louis Quinze; Shepherds and Shepherdesses, when both ladies and gentlemen wear the hair powdered and costumes associated with these characters; a Louis Quinze Hunting Quadille in the hunting dress of that period.  A Quadrille of All Nations, embracing all nationalities, the ladies and gentlemen of the same countries dancing together, the gentlemen occasionally carryng the national flag; Scotch, Irish, King and Queen, Army and Navy, Flowers of the Year, Venetian, Vandyke, Pack of Cards, Fairy Tale, Joe Willett and Dolly Varden, Puritan and Cavalier.  The time when such quadrilles are danced, and the partners are all pre-arranged.   (Holt, 1887)

        Among the many quadrilles from which to select a subject for this one dance, which may include other sets of the guests, are the following and it must be understood that the gentlemen of the set in most of the cases must be dressed alike and the ladies also; and that the costumes must belong to the same period or be naturally associated together: Shepherds and Shepherdesses; the Seasons; Watteau and Poudré periods; Louis Quinze Hunting Quadrille, in the hunting costume of that period; Kings and Queens of various nations; Army and Navy; Holbein Quadrille in Tudor dress; Flowers of the Year; Birds; Pack of Cards; Puritan Maidens and Cavaliers; Noah’s Ark, (the animals in pairs); National Games; Politicians and Nuns; Policemen and Nurse Girls; Dudes and Tailor-made Girls; Clowns and Fairies; in fact, anything of the kind that may suggest itself to the hostess or committee of arrangements, who plans when such a dance shall take place and who are to take part in it.  (Butterick, 1892)

        A marked feature at most Fancy Balls is a specially arranged Quadrille.  The choice is a large one.  The list includes; — Watteau, Poudré, Noah’s Ark, Cracker, Constellation, Domino, Hobby-Horse, Seasons, Bird, Louis Quinze, Shepherds and Shepherdesses, when both ladies and gentlemen wear the costumes associated with these characters.  For a Louis Quinze Hunting Quadrille they appear in the hunting dress of that period; for a Holbein Quadrille in the Tudor dress; a Quadrille of all Nations, embracing all nationalities, the ladies and gentlemen of the same countries dancing together, the gentlemen occasionally carrying the national flag are all good.  In an Italian and Swiss Quadrille, each couple preserve the same coloring.  In Black and White the ladies are entirely robed in white with powdered hair; the gentlemen in black costumes of the time of Edward III., with black masks and pointed shoes, hanging sleeves.  Stuart and Georgian characters make good quadrilles, and Pierre and Pierrettes, Punch and his wife, and Spanish Men and Maidens in various colorings.  In a Toy Quadrille, toys such as tops, Dutch dolls, battledores and shuttlecocks appear.  For an Octave, ladies and gentlemen are dressed in black and white, each carry bells which tinkle as they walk.  For Chivalry, the gentlemen are in armour, and the ladies in the dress of the period.  Scotch, Irish, King and Queen, Army and Navy, Flowers of he Year, Venetian, Vandyke, Pack of Cards, Fairy Tale, Butterflies, Joe Willett and Dolly Varden, Puritan and Cavalier also find favour.  The time when such quadrilles are danced, and the partners, are all pre-arranged.  (Holt, 1896)

    Descriptions of Poudré, Shepherdess, Vandyke, and Butterfly costumes are already posted elsewhere on Historical Fancy Dress, with more to come!

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Masquerade and Carnival.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1892.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • With regard to powdering

    (Practical advice on how to powder the hair for a Poudré ball or costume.)

        With regard to Powdering, it is best, if possible, not to have recourse to a wig, they are heavy and unbecoming.  It is far better to powder the hair itself, using violet powder, and plenty of pomatum before applying it; but it entails a great deal of trouble in subsequently removing the powder.  The head may be covered with a thick soap lather.  The powder is applied thus: A puff well-filled is held above the head, jerking the elbow with the other hand.  The process should be repeated over and over again, and it is incredible the amount of powder that ought to be used to produce a satisfactory result.  An easy mode of dressing the hair for powder is to part it across the head from ar to ear, turning the front over a high cushion, making the back into a long loose chignon, with a few marteaux or rolled curls behind the cushion.  Sometimes the roll in front is replaced by a series of marteaux placed diagonally.  Sometimes the centre-piece only is rolled over the cushion, with marteaux at the sides.  Sometimes the back has four marteaux on either side, put diagonally, with others behind the ear, or a bunch of loose curls fall at the back.  All this may be made easier by having false marteaux and curls which have a far better effect than a wig.  It is, however, very much the fashion to powder the hair as it is worn now, viz., with curls in front and a coil at the back, a style which accords well with the dress worn when powder was a fashion.

    Sources (identical language in both):
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Salt Water and Fresh Water

    (Here's a pair of costumes for two sisters or friends that's in the same general category as the mermaid, sea maiden, and water spirit previously described, though considerably simpler in ornamentation.)

    The 1896 description:
    Suitable dresses for two sisters; both would wear green and white tulle dresses and veils.  For salt water, these would be trimmed with coral, seaweeds, and shells; the other with water-lilies and grasses.

    The 1880 and 1887 descriptions specify green and white evening dresses with white tulle veils but are otherwise identical to the later one.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Richard I, Coeur-de-Lion

    (This is listed as a boy's costume, though there's no reason a man couldn't wear it as well.)

    The 1887 description:

    RICHARD I., COEUR DE LION.  In a maroon velvet tunic trimmed with gold lace, three lions couchant embroidered in gold on the breast; white silk tights; velvet trunks; gold and satin shoes; jewelled belt, sword, and dagger.

    The 1880 version differs only in making the lions courant (running) instead of couchant (lying down).  Historically, Richard I appears to have used a device with the three lions passant gardant (striding, facing toward the viewer.)

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Queen of Hearts

    FD-Armstrong-QueenofHearts (This is the playing card version, not the famous Tenniel illustration from Alice in Wonderland.  Click the image to enlarge.)

    Queen of Hearts — This is rather a pretty and quaint costume, in which the wearer is got up to look as like a Court Card as possible.  The over-dress should be of heavy woolen brocade lined with pale blue silk, whilst the under-dress should be of thick white silk appliqué with scarlet hearts.  The cloak is completed by a jewelled collar; and a conventional flower mounted on a wire stalk gives the finishing touch to the picture.

    Source:
    Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

  • Sea Maiden (The Little Mermaid)

    (Another mermaid costume, this one inspired by Hans Christian Anderson's classic fairy tale, "The Little Sea-Maid," better known as "The Little Mermaid".  This one features a fish-tail train which would be a challenge on the dance floor!)

    SEA MAIDEN (Anderson's).  Plain loose robe of sea-green watered silk; under-dress of batiste, same shade, cut as a high square, back and front; short puffed sleeves; wreath of seaweed; silver shells in puffings of tulle round; coral round neck and wrists; armlets of shells; round waist belt of coral and shells from which falls seaweed; train of silver cloth, cut like a fish-tail at the edge and trimmed with oyster-shells; pink stockings; sandalled pink shoes; pink gloves; silver band round head, hair floating on shoulders, with red flowers intermingled; miniature of beautiful prince around neck.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.