Historical Fancy Dress

Category: Abstract

  • Salt Water and Fresh Water

    (Here's a pair of costumes for two sisters or friends that's in the same general category as the mermaid, sea maiden, and water spirit previously described, though considerably simpler in ornamentation.)

    The 1896 description:
    Suitable dresses for two sisters; both would wear green and white tulle dresses and veils.  For salt water, these would be trimmed with coral, seaweeds, and shells; the other with water-lilies and grasses.

    The 1880 and 1887 descriptions specify green and white evening dresses with white tulle veils but are otherwise identical to the later one.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Ribbons

    (Here's a simple 1890s costume that's perfect for anyone who wants to clean out their ribbon stash!  While it suggests a dress made from ribbon, a similar effect could be obtained by using an ordinary dress and ornamenting it with ribbon as described.)

    Dress of wide cream-colored chiné ribbon joined perpendicularly.  Shoulder knots and flowing ends from the waist.  Ribbon aigrette in hair; ribbon necklet and bracelets.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Nocturne

    (Here's another easy out for ladies who don't want to wear "decided" fancy costumes, and a perfect example of the power of strategic naming: simply wear an evening gown in colors reminiscent of one of Whistler's famous Nocturne paintings, of which a primary characteristic was their lack of narrative content.)

    "In black and white, or red and white, after Whistler.  The term is generally applied to a stylish evening dress of the above mixtures.  The name is a fashion of the hour, and finds favour with those who do not care for decided fancy costumes."

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

    The "fashion of the hour" label seems to be accurate — it does not appear in the sixth (1896) edition of Holt. 

    WhistlerNocturne Interestingly, there is at least one Whistler portrait labeled a Nocturne: the Nocturne in Pink and Grey, Portrait of Lady Meux (1881-1882), shown at left (click image to enlarge).  It's not a ballgown, but it does suggest a wider range of color possibilities than those given above.  Whistler also painted Nocturnes in combinations of blue and gold, black and gold, blue and silver, and grey and gold.

     

     

  • Justice

    (An interesting costume combining both symbolic and practical elements of the theme.)

    Short white satin dress, scales in black velvet appliquéd upon it; black velvet jacket with policeman’s badge on one arm; a leather belt; a truncheon in hand, and policeman’s helmet.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Queen of Mirth

    (Another lovely costume description with no illustration to accompany it.  This is a great one for people who want to fuss around with accessories and little decorations on a relatively simple gown.)

    Rose-coloured skirt, white satin front, and low square bodice, trimmed with bells, crocuses, shamrocks, and butterflies (emblems of mirth); coronet and veil; a sceptre surmounted by a butterfly; rose-coloured shoes.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Song

    FD-Butterick-Song

    (This is a great costume typical of many of the more abstract fancy dress themes.  It's taken from an Edwardian era manual but has draping at the hips much like that of the bustle era, though with hints of the Edwardian silhouette in the corsetry.  Click the illustration to enlarge for the details.)

    Skirt and bodice of cerise satin.  Draperies of pale-gray gauze, with laurel leaves, etc. for ornamentation.  Staff and notes painted on the skirt.

    Source: Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.