Category: Shakespeare

  • Poodle

    (For ladies who want to dress up as a dog, complete with puppy ears.  One really wishes they had included an illustration for this one!)

    Skirt of black tulle covered with small ruches to represent the curly coat; corselet bodice of black velvet.  Silver bracelet on the right arm; a collar of red satin ribbon.  The hair frizzed; a couple of black velvet ears lined with pink silk at the side.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • 1888 “Beetle Wing Dress” restored

    EllenTerryMacbeth1888 After a £110,00 restoration, the famous Beetle Wing Dress worn by Victorian actress Ellen Terry for the role of Lady Macbeth in 1888 (image at left; click to enlarge) has been restored and is now on display at Smallhythe Place, in Kent.  While this is a theatrical costume worn on stage rather than a fancy dress costume for a social event, its use of actual insect parts is interesting in the wake of comment-thread speculation on previous posts about the use of such materials in fancy dress costumes imitating insects and birds.

    True to its name, the dress was covered in real beetle wings, which made repairing it an interesting challenge.  An article published by Britain’s National Trust quotes Paul Meredith, House Manager at Smallhythe Place:

    ‘We had collected the beetle wings that had fallen off over the years so that the conservator was able to re-attach many of the originals, plus others that had been donated to us – 1,000 in total.”
    The actual dress is a stunningly bright blue-green, and was an enormous sensation at the time:

    SargentBeetleDressThe dress, transforming the beautiful red-haired actor into a cross between a jewelled serpent and a medieval knight, was the talk of the town after the first night. John Singer Sargent painted Terry wearing it, and the artist’s neighbour, Oscar Wilde, recalled the impact of Lady Macbeth arriving in a taxi: “The street that on a wet and dreary morning has vouchsafed the vision of Lady Macbeth in full regalia magnificently seated in a four-wheeler can never again be as other streets.” 

     

    BeetleDress The Sargent portrait is shown at right and the actual dress, in a photo the colors of which do not do it justice, at left.  Click the images to enlarge.  Better-colored photos, though only partial views, are available in the National Trust article.

    Special thanks to Eowyn for the tip!

  • Othello

    FD-Butterick-Othello 33 (Another Shakespearean costume, this time for the gentlemen. What is left out of the description is that this was almost certainly worn with blackface makeup, which would nowadays be completely unacceptable.  Click the image to enlarge.)

    Shirt of white silk and tights of pale brown; sleeveless tunic of black silk, handsomely trimmed with gold bands; gold belt; full cloak of white cloth.

    Source: Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • Romeo

    FD-Butterick-Romeo

    (One last costume — for now — from Shakespeare, this time for the men.  And yes, it’s another costume with tights.  And a purse!  Notice he’s carrying a rose, a reference to the famous line from the play.)

    Tunic and tights of dove-colored wool; shirt of white mull and cloak of Venetian red cloth lined with pale gray.  Cap of red velvet with gray feather.  Leather belt from which is suspended a pocket.

    Source: Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • Ariel

    (Back to Shakespeare: a fairy costume from The Tempest, conceived as female, though the character is often played as male or, nowadays, androgynous.  This is a very classic fairy style, with wings, a wand, and a star on the forehead.)

    Short white diaphonous tulle dress, with silver wand and silver gauze wings; hair floating on shoulders, confined by a silver band around the head, with star in centre; low full bodice and short sleeves.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Rosalind

    FD-Butterick-Rosalind14 (Yes, women cross-dressed for fancy dress balls!  And how could the costume of the heroine from As You Like It be anything but respectable?  Note that the pink lining of the cloak is not a "girly" thing; pink was considered a masculine color in the early 20th century,  Click to enlarge the image.)

    Doublet and hose of light-gray wool, the former trimmed with gray fur.  Green velvet bodice, chemisette and puffs of Nile-green silk.  Long gray cloak lined with pink.

    Source: Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.