Historical Fancy Dress

Tag: Victorian Masquerade

  • Golf

    (Continuing with the theme of summer sports, women's increased participation in golf is reflected in the evolution of this costume over two succeeding editions, spanning nine years, of the same fancy dress manual.)

    In the 1887 description, the costume is meant to portray a golf course or game, with the lady imitating grass with clubs and balls and a sand-trap scarf, though above the waist she wears the traditional red golf coat.

    1887:
    Grass green tulle skirt, fringe of grass and gorse; scarf of sand-colour draped round waist, and ornamented with balls and clubs; and bright red golfing coat.

    Compare this with the 1896 description below, which retains the golf-course skirt but adds accessories and a golf club that make it obvious that the woman herself is now a golfer.  This fits neatly with the development during the 1890s of golf as a game played by women as well as men.

    1896:
    Grass green satin skirt studded with golf balls and clubs, fringe of grass and gorse; scarf of sand-color draped round waist, and ornamented with balls and clubs.  Bright red cap and coat with swallow tails and white satin facings held back with golf buttons.  Suede shoes, white gauntlet gloves, a golf club in hand.

    Victorian ladies seem to have traditionally worn the red golf coat, but the December 1, 1899, edition of Golf Illustrated offers under "Some Hints on Dress for Lady Golfers" a bit of debate on the matter of "Coats Red and Green":

        Though her red Golf coat is not as a rule individually becoming to an Englishwoman, its effect collectively on the links is so bright and picturesque that one can only hope the coats of green, which are certainly gaining in favour for wear thereon, will not finally oust the red ones. 

        There is no doubt that though their rivals in green are not only very smart but excellent foils for complexions brightened by exercise (which, by the way, is not always the case with the red ones), and recently I saw a very effective one, built of green cheviot and, like all our apparel of the tailor-made persuasion this season, liberally bestripped: it was fastened with buck-horn buttons and lined with a thick red silk, though many of these cheviots have reversible tartan linings; one I saw at a leading tailor's the other day being bright red on the outer side while the reverse showed the Stuart tartan.

        This coat, in green, makes a capital all-round coat, which a red one of course does not, as it invariably boasts its owners club collar, cuffs, and buttons, thus stamping it with its raison d'être so plainly as to make it out of place anywhere but on the links.  With a green one, however, the addition of one of those big collars or necklets of fur makes it a perfect little coat for ordinary walking or driving use.

        To revert to its lining, there is a fancy just now for having the red Golf coats line with silk which exactly matches the colour of its collar and cuffs and a very good effect this has, especially when these are of one of the many shades of green which is such a favourite club colour.

     

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Powder vs. Wigs

    (Thoughts on whether to powder the hair or wear a wig for a Poudré ball or costume, and how to go about each method.)

    Contrary to the advice given by Ardern Holt, Lucie Armstrong felt that a wig was better than powdering one's own hair:

        The way to powder the hair is as follows: — First dress it very firmly and grease it all over.  Another person now takes the hair-powder and throws it lightly from above all over the hair, care being taken to protect the dress by means of a large wrap.  The effect of the powdered hair is extremely becoming, but the after-consequences are far from agreeable.  It takes days to get rid of all the powder and grease, and the hair often gets tangled and broken during the many washings and combings necessary.

        A simpler plan is to wear a powdered wig, which leaves no unpleasant results to the hair, though its weight is apt to induce headache.  A good wig is better than a bad head of hair, and the mass of curly locks are extremely becoming, and give a good deal of character to the face.

        It takes two people to put on a wig.  The one who is going to wear it must catch hold of the foundation, and pull it down in front as tightly as possible, whilst another person pulls it down as far as it will go at the back.  The hair must first be reduced to as small a compass as possible, combed up away from the face, and arranged tightly on top of the hea. The wig must be held in its place with white hair-pins, placed at the edge of the silk foundation, and fastened firmly into the hair beneath.  The curls are then arranged to suit the wearer, being gathered up towards the back with a few white-pins; and a few final touches of the powder-puff will improve the appearance of the wig when everything else is done.

        — Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

  • In the Gloaming

    (Here's a more elaborate version — in title as well as detail — of the costume for "Dusk" from the same manual.  Note that if you're "in the gloaming", you get to have a bat and an owl!)

    GLOAMING, IN THE.  Dress of grey tulle, or muslin, or gauze over satin, made as an ordinary evening dress, or in classic fashion; a veil of the same material; fire-flies imprisoned in the tulle; bat fastened on one shoulder, an owl on the other; silver and smoked pearl ornaments.

    The above is from the 1887 edition of Holt.  "Dusk" is upgraded after this — in 1896, that entry, which "In the Gloaming" refers the reader to, uses exactly the description as given above.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Napoleon

    FD-Butterick-Napoleon (One of the most recognizable historical figures for a man, and very suitable for a shorter gentleman in particular!  Click to enlarge the image.)

    White trousers; fawn-colored coat with heavy gold braid; purple sash and white felt hat trimmed with gold braid. Gauntlet gloves and spurs on boots.

     

    Source:
    Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • Tennis and Badminton

    (Here’s an increasingly elaborate and ridiculous sport-themed costume for women — with a modern interpretation as well!)

    The 1887 edition of Ardern Holt’s fancy dress manual lists costume ideas under both “Tennis, lawn” and “Lawn tennis and badminton”:

    TENNIS, LAWN.  Short plain skirt of grass-green satin, slightly gathered at the back, and trimmed at the edge with grass fringe, headed by white satin bands; bats and balls introduced as trimming.

    LAWN TENNIS AND BADMINTON.  Sometimes for these only an ordinary lawn tennis dress and pouch are worn, with a bat attached to the side. 

    That not being nearly exciting enough, Holt continues the latter description with a rather witchy alternate version:

    A better representation is a green satin skirt, a bat fastening a silver net, forming paniers, pouches and balls on the shoulders, which drape the skirt; scarf across bodice, with lawn tennis in silver letters; black bodice with white circles to resemble balls; high pointed black hat with a bat as an aigrette; brown stockings and shoes. 

    And then tops it off by jazzing up the plain “Tennis, lawn” version even further:

    Or, a short plain skirt of grass green satin, gathered at back, trimmed round the edge with two rows of grass fringe, headed by a flat band of white satin an inch and a half in width, to represent the boundary of court; six lines of the same round the skirt at intervals; a tennis net draped from waist, edged with scarlet and white worsted balls; miniature tennis bats hold up the drapery; bodice of green velvet, long sleeves to wrist, all bordered with gold braid and scarlet and white balls; epaulettes of scarlet and white satin ribbon; red and white satin peaked cap, with daisies and leaves beneath the flap; Suède gloves, and black shoes; scarlet stockings; ornaments, gold tennis bats; fan like a bat, in red.

     The 1896 description is similar to the first and last parts of the longer 1887 description (now the tennis net is gold!) and adds a sop to badminton:

    LAWN TENNIS AND BADMINTON.  Sometimes for these only an ordinary lawn tennis dress and pouch are worn, with a bat attached to the side.  A better representation is a short plain skirt of grass green satin, gathered at back, trimmed round the edge with two rows of grass fringe, headed by a flat band of white satin an inch and a half in width, to represent the boundary of the court; six lines of the same round the skirt at intervals; a gold tennis net draped from waist, edged with scarlet and white worsted balls; miniature tennis bats hold up the drapery; bodice of green velvet, long sleeves to wrist, all bordered with gold braid and scarlet and white balls; epaulettes of scarlet and white satin ribbon; red and white satin peaked cap, with daisies and leaves beneath the flap; Suéde gloves, and black shoes; scarlet stockings; ornaments, gold tennis bats; fan like a bat, in red.  For Badminton Shuttle Cocks replace the balls.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

    Frighteningly enough, the idea of dressing up as tennis (lawn) occurred to one of this year’s Wimbledon competitors — fashion-conscious tennis professional Bethanie Mattek-Sands made an appearance at the WTA’s pre-Wimbledon party in fancy dress, having sacrificed quite a few tennis balls for her look:

    MattekTennisBallDress
    Photos courtesy of Style Bistro (more photos there!)  Click the image to enlarge.

    Though it shows a little more skin than a Victorian fancy dress outfit would, and the shoes are hardly danceable, the general idea is very much in keeping with nineteenth-century fancy dress.  And they would have loved the hat!

  • Brownie

    FD-Butterick-Brownie (A brownie costume for a boy or a group of boys that's more creepy than charming.)

    This costume is of brown cloth with yellow bands, buttons and cap trimming.  Yellow stockings and brown pointed slippers.  Where a number of "Brownies" are to appear, the costume may be made of khaki, duck or like material, and may be of any combination of colors, bright hues being preferred.

    Source:
    Masquerades, Tableaux and Drills.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1906.

  • The Seasons Quadrille

    (Here are descriptions of costumes for a Fancy Quadrille carried out by a matched set of eight ladies and gentlemen.  A subset of the costume descriptions could also be used for a group of men or women or for a couple.)

    THE SEASONS QUADRILLE

    SPRING. — A very Young Lady. — Short dress of primrose tulle, with satin bodice of the same colour.  Skirt, trimmed with bunches of primroses, and bouquets of same on shoulders; primrose wreath on the head; shoes and stockings and gloves all of the same colour.

    Attendant Gentleman — Angler — Izaak Walton. — A brown, velvet doublet, with brass buttons up the front and along the square side-pockets.  Full knee-breeches of brown velvet, with brown or yellow silk stockings.  A high pointed beaver hat, with yellow feather.; fishing-rod in hand.  Hair tied in a bag-wig with brown or yellow bow.

    SUMMER. — Pale pink tulle, over satin of the same shade.  Low bodice, edged with garland of roses.  Wreath of ross on head, and a long garland of the same flowers on the skirt.

    Attendant Gentleman — Haymaker. — Smock frock of cream-coloured soft silk, brown corduroy knee-breeches, and pale blue stockings, with Oxford shoes.  Rustic hat, and square-cut hair.  Sleeves tied in three places with pale blue ribbon.

    AUTUMN. — Amber tulle dress, trimmed with long garlands of poppies and corn.  Bunches of same on shoulders  Wreath of poppies and corn.  This is a most becoming dess for a brunette.

    Attendant Gentleman — Reaper. — Same as haymaker, but with green corduroy breeches, instead of brown.  Brown stockings and Oxford shoes.  Belt and sickle.

    WINTER. — White satin short dress, edged with swan's-down.  A robin perched on left shoulder.  Leonardo da Vinci cap of white plush, trimmed with swan's-down, and a robin stuck at one side.  High white satin boots edged with swan's down at the top.

    Attendant Gentleman — Polish Skater. — Dress of purple velvet, edged with fur.  Small skates slung to his belt.

    Source:
    Armstrong, Lucie.  The Ball-Room Guide.  London and New York: Frederick Warne & Co., c1880s.

  • The Ghost of a Belle

    (Here's an interesting twist on Poudré costume that can incorporate a white dress of any era, provided the wearer is willing to powder her hair!)

    Any style of costume in white.  Powdered hair, white slippers and stockings.  The face should also be powdered to look very white, or a white mask may be worn.

    Source:
    Masquerade and Carnival.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1892.

  • For Fair-Haired Women

    (Paralleling the list of costumes for brunettes, here are some fancy dress suggestions for fair-haired women from various editions of Ardern Holt's manual.)

    From the second edition in 1880:

    For FAIR WOMEN, among others, the following are suitable: — Arctic Maiden, Air, Bride of Lammermoor, Aurora, White Lady of Avenel, Canada, Canadian Snow Wreath, Danish, Day, Dew, Elaine, Fair Maid of Perth, Fairy, Flora, Marguerite in Faust, Moonlight, Norwegian, Ophelia, Peace, Polish, Rainbow, Rowena, Sabrina, Swiss, Schneewitchen, Titania, Twilight, and Water-Nymphs.

    The list expanded slightly in the 1887 & 1896 editions:

    For FAIR WOMEN, among others, the following are suitable: — Arctic Maide, Air, Bride of Lammermoor, Aurora, White Lady of Avenel, Canada, Canadian Snow Wreath, Danish Peasant, Day, Dew, Edith Bellender, Elaine, Fair Maid of Perth, Fairy, Flora, Gabrielle d'Estrées, La Belle Dame sans Merci, Margeurite in Faust, Moonlight, Norwegian costumes, Ophelia, Peace, Polish Peasant, Rainbow, Rowena, Sabrina, Swiss, Schneewittchen, Titania, Twilight, and Water-Nymphs.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Falconer & Falconry

    (Falconer and Falcon(e)ry are actually individual costumes from completely different sources, though close together in time, but they'd also make a workable pair of themed costumes for a couple, despite their disparate historical styles.  It seems a bit unfair that the lady gets a hawk, presumably stuffed, and the gentleman does not!)

    For the gentlemen, a Falconer:

    FALCONER
    Short tunic of brown velvet trimmed with a plastron of gold cloth and bound with gold braid, fastened round the waist with a leather belt.  Loose knickerbockers, gartered at the knee, and tied with a ribbon bow.  White stockings with calf-pieces of velvet trimmed with gold braid.  Leather shoes.  Lace neck-frill.  Soft, round hat of velvet, trimmed with eagle feathers.

    Source:
    Masquerade and Carnival.  New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1892.

     

    For the ladies, Falconery:

    FALCONERY
    Short skirt of dark cloth, red, blue, or brown; green velvet skirt caught up on one side; long basqued jacket of the same; gauntlet gloves with hawk on the hand.  Cavalier hat with dropping feathers; high boots.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

     

    Nine years later the description is virtually the same, though the velvet overskirt is lost and the spelling is more conventional:

    FALCONRY
    Short skirt of dark cloth, red or brown; long basqued jacket of green velvet; gauntlet gloves; a hawk on the hand.  Cavalier hat with dropping feathers; high boots.

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.