Historical Fancy Dress

Tag: Victorian Masquerade

  • Wastepaper Basket

    FD-Holt-1896-Wastebasket (One of those deliciously silly ideas: dressing up as a wastepaper basket, hilariously applied over the 1890s hourglass silhouette, complete with the enormous sleeves of the mid-1890s, festooned with paper!)

    The gown in the Illustration must be carried out in any fabric which most closely resembles the wicker basket work, the trimmings being entirely confined to waste paper, which should be sewn with some skill round the hem forming the sleeves and cap.

    (Click the image to enlarge.)

    Source:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Columbine

    (Another cute flower costume, this time for a young girl, though there's no special reason an adult woman could not do something similar.)

    Pink silk stockings, white satin shoes, tulle skirt, short and full; cuirass bodice bordered with flowers; wreath of flowers in hand.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Snow, Snowstorm, Snow Queen

    (A costume suited to the season or for anyone with an excess of swansdown at hand.  White maribou would make a workable substitute.)

    Snow, Snowstorm.
    A princesse dress of soft white foulard, made high to the throat, or with a square-cut bodice, back and front, and very short sleeves; a drapery of Indian muslin put on just below the hips, covered with detached pieces of frosted swansdown, caught back at both sides with a long broad piece of swansdown, long glass icicles; the bodice and short sleeves trimmed to match, and a wreath of frosted swansdown, with icicles; a veil, fastened either to the wreath or to the shoulders, of frosted gauze, dotted all over with swansdown; very long gloves, trimmed to match, and shoes covered with swansdown; necklace of frosted swansdown and icicles, and from underneath a few drooping snowdrops peeping out; hair down; the fan entirely of swansdown, with an edging of drooping icicles; if the swansdown is just touched with gum, and some "frosting" powder sprinkled on, the effect is very sparkling.

    Snow Queen.
    Same, with crown of icicles.

    Source:  Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Pansy

    FD-Holt-1887-Pansy (Here's a specific example of a flower costume, with three different variations, the first of which is illustrated at left.)

    Short white dress trimmed with deep rich-coloured violet pansies, one large one forming the head-dress the petals standing well round the head, like a brim; the bodice made of dark petunia velvet, arranged to simulate the flower, the soft peach crêpe de chine draped with pansies; a fan in the shape of a pansy.

    Or, dress of amber-coloured soft silk, trimmed with purple bands, outlined with gold; loops of purple and amber-coloured ribbons on the top of the sleeves; head-dress in the shape of the flower; white bibbed apron, embroidered in purple; a gold basket of hearts-ease carried.

    Or, dress of violet tulle and satin with profuse trimmings of the flower; wreath and shoes to correspond.

     

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • On personating flowers

    (Some advice on the popular — and very easy to assemble — flower costumes.  Descriptions of flower costumes actually worn at an event may be found in the coverage of an 1890s "plant party."  The descriptions given from both editions of this source are quite similar.)

    A fashionable evening dress trimmed with any flower, and called after it, is the easiest kind of fancy costume; a tulle veil with a  wreath is often worn with this, and China floral ornaments, a basket of the flowers carried in the hand.  Sometimes the flower is imitated; as for example: Blue Belle, blue shoes, stockings, and short skirt cut in vandykes, yellow bodice, cap like an inverted bell with green stalk.  Sometimes the dress is the colour of the flower, a violet evening dress made up with silver gauze and green leaves for a Violet, or the dress is embroidered with wild flowers, wall flowers, apple-blossom, ivy, fern, snowdrop, La Marguerite, heartsease, forget-me-nots, buttercups, or any flower personated.  Fleur d'été and oracles des champs can be rendered after these fashions, or if more of a fancy costume is desired, the lower part of skirt is gathered in diamonds, and outlined with silver or gold braid, or leaves and flowers; the bodice made à la Louis XV., and trimmed with gold or silver; an apron with bib, and a coquettish hat at one side of the head entwined with the particular flower.

    Sources: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.

    A fashionable evening dress trimmed with any flower, and called after it, is the easiest kind of fancy costume; a tulle veil with a  wreath is often worn with this, and china floral ornaments; a basket of the flowers carried in the hand.  Sometimes the flower is imitated; as for example: Blue Belle, blue shoes, stockings, and short skirt cut in vandykes, yellow bodice, cap like an inverted bell with green stalk.  Sometimes the dress is the colour of the flower, viz., a violet evening gown made up with silver gauze and green leaves for a Violet.  Forget-me-not, blue satin dress, border of flowers, muslin fichu and cap, apron trimmed to match, blue hose, shoes, and mittens; or the dress is embroidered with wild flowers, wallflowers, apple-blossom, ivy, fern, snowdrop, la marguerite, heartsease, forget-me-nots, buttercups, or any flower personated.  Fleur d'été, Fleur des Champs, and Oracle des Champs, can be rendered after these fashions; or if more of a fancy costume is desired, the lower part of skirt is gathered in diamonds, and outlined with silver or gold braid, or leaves and flowers; the bodice made à la Louis XV., and trimmed with gold or silver; an apron with bib, and a coquettish hat at one side of the head entwined with the particular flower.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Evening Dress of the Future

    (This costume is from a listing of simple costume suggestions for gentlemen and provides a very easy out for a modern gentleman — white tailcoats and trousers and black shirts can be easily rented or bought from a formalwear store.  The waistcoat color is not specified, perhaps because both black and white were worn in period, though black was more common.  Like the Footwoman of the Future, this costume tries to anticipate change, though it fails to predict the tuxedo!)

    …viz, white where it is usually black, and vice versa, white coat and trousers, black shirt, tie, and collar.

    Sources:
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.
    Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Guinevere

    (Two nearly-identical descriptions of a pseudo-historical Arthurian costume from two different editions of the same manual, dated seven years apart.  The only change is the addition of an optional cloak in the later edition.  Judging from other literary-medieval descriptions and illustrations of the era, this would probably have been worn over a corset and either no bustle or a very minimal one, though you never know — they've put bustles under less likely styles!)

    (Idylls of the King).  Costly dress of gold tissue, velvet, and brocade; the skirt long and flowing, fastened from neck to hem with jewelled clasps, if possible an emerald in each, square-cut bodice, with jewelled bands round; sleeves tight at lower part, of a distinct colour to the bodice, the upper portion slashed and jewels introduced; coronet of pearls; hair in plaits.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.

    (Idylls of the King).  Costly dress of gold tissue, velvet, and brocade; the skirt long and flowing, fastened from neck to hem with jewelled clasps, if possible an emerald in each; square-cut bodice, with jewelled bands round; sleeves tight at lower part, of a distinct colour to the bodice, the upper portion slashed and jewels introduced; coronet of pearls; hair in plaits.  A long brocaded cloak enveloping the figure may be added.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Footwoman of the Future

    FD-Holt-1887-Footwoman
    (This costume verges on science fiction — a preview of an egalitarian future in which women take on a traditionally male job — while simultaneously looking back to the late 18th and early 19th centuries for style elements in the same way as a footman's livery of the era!)

    Black satin quilted skirt; maroon double-breasted tail-coat, brass buttons; black waistcoat showing beneath the jacket in front, and lace ruffles; hair powdered; tricorn black and gold hat; gold-headed cane in hand.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

  • Costumes for brunettes

    (Costumes ideally suited the wearer by age and coloration.  Here three nearly-identical lists of suggestions for brunettes, taken from different editions of the same manual.)

    Among the Costumes best adapted to BRUNES are Africa, Arab Lady, Arrah-na-Pogue, Asia, Autumn, Bee, Gipsies of various kinds, the Bride of Abydos, Brigand's Wife, Britannia, Buy-a-Broom, Carmen, Cleopatra, Colleen Bawn, Connaught Peasant, Diana, Druideess, Earth, Egyptian, Erin, Esmeralda, Fenella, Fire, Greek, Harvest, Maid of Saragossa, Maritana, Oranges and Lemons, Rose of Castille, and Zingari, together with Italian, Spanish, and Oriental.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 2nd Edition, Illustrated.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1880.

    Among the Costumes adapted to BRUNES are Africa, Arab Lady, Arrah-na-Pogue, Asia, Autumn, Bee, Gipsies of various kinds, the Bride of Abydos, Brigand's Wife, Britannia, Buy-a-Broom, Carmen, Cleopatra, Colleen Bawn, Connaught Peasant Diana, Druidess, Earth, Egyptian, Erin, Esmeralda, Fenella, Fire, Greek, Luti, the Indian Girl, Harvest, Maid of Saragossa, Maritana, Rose of Castille, and Zingari, together with Italian, Spanish, and Oriental dresses.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.

    Among the Characters adapted to BRUNES are Africa, Arab Lady, Arrah-na-Pogue, Asia, Autumn, Bee, Gipsies of various kinds, the Bride of Abydos, Brigand's Wife, Britannia, Buy-a-Broom, Carmen, Cleopatra, Colleen Bawn, Connaught Peasant, Diana, Druidess, Earth, Egyptian, Erin, Esmeralda, Fenella, Fire, Greek, Harvest, Maid of Saragossa, Maritana, Rose of Castille, together with Italian, Spanish, and Oriental dresses.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, Sixth Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1896.

    The 1896 edition of Holt may be found online at the University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

  • Fly Costume for Boy of Four

    (Here's another insect costume, this one apparently for a boy so young that he's not yet breeched (put into trousers of some kind rather than dresses), as the outfit is basically a dress.  I suspect this is why the age is specified in the title of the costume.  Nowadays this would probably not be a popular choice for a boy's costume, but might work for a little girl, so I'm cross-listing it.  No illustration, alas!)

    Golden-yellow satin skirt, ornamented with black braid and studded with small gauze flies.  The sort upper skirt forms a sort of long basque and is sewn to the waistband; rows of gold braid across the high bodice, and round the short sleeves, loose jacket ornamented with gauze; fly in the centre of back, an smaller ones in front; black velvet toque, with gold band round, a gold fly fastening down aigrette.

    Source: Holt, Ardern.  Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition.  London: Debenham & Freebody, 1887.